Repairing Furniture: How to Fix Before Painting
Let me be 100% honest here, there is no way I can cover every possible scenario when describing how to fix furniture. So, for this post, I’m going to focus on some of the most common issues I come across when repairing furniture. This is primarily for those looking to repaint/refinish a piece of furniture. Looking for advice on fixing something I don’t cover below? Drop me a comment and I’d be happy to answer your question for you!
There are many scenarios where wood glue comes in handy. If I had to pick one way to fix furniture, it would be with wood glue. Wood glue can repair loose joints, wobbly legs or other wobbly areas, and broken off pieces. Most of the time I use a basic yellow wood glue – this is ideal for clean, dry, bare wood surfaces and tight joints that need to be repaired. They are easy to use, safe, and clean up with water. They work by seeping into the wood’s pores and bonding with the wood itself. It won’t work well on finished, dirty, or smooth surfaces. Make sure to remove any old glue, dirt, old finish, etc… so that dry bare wood is touching dry bare wood. Sandpaper can be very helpful in doing this.
Gluing and Clamping Furniture
Often it can be difficult to get to some of the areas in need of gluing – we are repairing older furniture, not building something from scratch. You can always use something like a toothpick or old credit card/gift card to help push glue into tight areas, but my favorite thing to use is a blunt ended syringe. These come in a variety of sizes and are perfect for getting the glue into those hard to reach areas.
The second, and very important, part of this process is the clamping. I can’t tell you how many repairs I’ve done that had been previously repaired with a thick blob of glue that wasn’t clamped. Clamping down and wiping back any excess will give you the strongest repair. It can be tempting to skip this step if you don’t have clamps. They can be expensive, but definitely worthwhile to have a few on hand. In a pinch I’ve also used some of my son’s free weights, straps, or even tape. But I don’t recommend as you are really looking for even pressure that only clamping can provide.
Fix Furniture Scratches/Dents
When thinking about how to fix furniture, scratches and dents are another common issue that should be addressed. Sometimes you may be going for a more rustic vibe/finish and may want to leave some of this character. If you are using a high quality paint, you will see the imperfections in your final finish -how much you want to leave is up to you.
There are four main fillers I will use when prepping the surface for paint. Here is what I like to use and when I like to use them. As always, make sure you are following the manufacturers instructions.
- All Purpose Bondo: This is best for bigger repairs. It is a two part filler (that you mix together). It has a short work time before it begins to harden, but it dries rock hard and sands smooth. Often you may have to do more than one round to get a completely level finish. Make sure to use in a well ventilated area. I have a post linked here that talks all things Bondo!
- Wood filler: This is great because it cleans up with water and is the least toxic option. I’ll often use this to fill in smaller dings and cracks. It will shrink when it dries, so again you will likely need to do more than one round.
- KwikWood: This is a moldable putty that is great for reshaping missing areas – corners, trim, etc… I also use this to fill in hardware holes if I’m looking to move the hardware location on a piece.
- Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty: This stuff is amazing for really small areas. It is a much thinner consistency than all purpose Bondo so it works really well for small imperfections. Like regular Bondo it dries quickly and sands super smooth.
Fix Furniture Veneer
A syringe with glue and then clamps were used to repair.
Bondo was used to repair.
Veneer is a thin layer of “fancy” wood (such as mahogany or walnut) that traditionally was placed on a cheaper wood during manufacturing. Over time, the glue holding this veneer on deteriorates and separates. The amount of veneer damage on a piece can vary significantly, and this will usually dictate how you approach the repair. Sometimes the damage is so bad you just need to take it all off, which can be a time-consuming process.
Loose veneer
Often you will just need to glue and clamp the edges where it is beginning to separate. Just make sure you get the glue into all of the areas where it’s separating, or it may bubble when you go to paint. A syringe is a great way to get glue under the veneer. If it’s a longer repair use several clamps across the area, with a board underneath to help even out the pressure. Sometimes you can re-activate the existing glue using steam from water and an iron. I always use the “tap test” to see if there are any areas left that aren’t glued down. If you gently tap over the area, you can hear the difference, any air will make a more hollow sound.
Missing Veneer
Sometimes the veneer may have chipped off. You may also find an air bubble in the middle of your piece that cannot be accessed to reglue, so you need to chip out that area and are left with a hole. In these cases, I will use Bondo (as described above) to fill in those areas. Just be sure you chip away any bits that are loose before filling.
Sticky Drawers
One of the biggest complaints with vintage furniture? Drawers that stick. And we want our finished project to be functional, so it’s important to address these issues. Sometimes it can be as easy as moving drawers around. They may not be in their original locations – while drawers may look the same size they are often slightly different and fit best in their original location.
I also will use a drawer lubricant to help them slide more easily. My favorite is linked here and has honestly been a game-changer for me. I’ve used soap and candles as well, and while they do help some, the drawer lubricant is much better.
Finally, the wood may have warped or swollen over time. In this case, I will use a small planer or sandpaper to remove a bit of the wood in the points where they are sticking. Sometimes I will do this to the drawer itself and sometimes to the frame where it sits, it really depends on exactly where it’s rubbing.
As you can see, there are so many issues that can come up when repairing furniture. This post could go on forever! But let me stop here, and hopefully, I’ve given you at least of taste of how to fix furniture. And enough information to tackle your next project! Please leave a comment below if you have additional questions. I’m happy to answer!
be sure to check out my other posts on furniture painting basics:
- Prepare Furniture for Paint: Cleaning and Sanding
- Priming Furniture: Everything You Need to Know
- Hand Painted Furniture: How to Get A Flawless Finish With a Brush
- How to Seal Painted Furniture: Protecting With a Top Coat
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