Using a Faux Linen Painting Technique on Furniture
Let me start by saying I’m obsessed with this faux linen painting technique! It is an amazing way to add some interest and dimension to a piece of furniture, especially one that lacks character to begin with. I’ve seen this technique called faux linen, faux grasscloth, even faux fabric – but the process is essentially the same. You start with a base layer, and then use a chip brush (I’ve even seen people use brooms) to create the linen look with the second layer.
To be totally upfront, this technique has a bit of a learning curve. I’ve done several pieces (more examples are at the end of this post) and it gets easier the more you do it. I’ve also tweaked my technique a bit after doing it a few times. The first couple of times I spent a lot of time re-doing sections to get the look I wanted.
When to use
I love to use this faux linen painting technique on basic, boring pieces of furniture. This is for two reasons. First, it is a great way to add character and interest to an otherwise boring piece of furniture. If you just paint a piece that doesn’t have any existing details on it, the result just be a plain painted box. As a general rule, I always try to highlight one detail on every makeover I do. If the piece doesn’t have any details to highlight, this technique is a great way to add one!
Second, this technique works best on flat surfaces, It is tricky to get a uniform look on curves or other details. The more complicated the lines are on a piece of furniture, the harder this technique will be to use. You can see in the before and after images below that this large credenza was a good candidate for this technique. Big and boring!
A note on product links
This post contains Amazon affiliate links, meaning I get a small commission on qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.
Steps in the faux linen painting technique
This tutorial assumes you have prepped your piece for paint like you normally would. If you’d like a review of these steps, check out my posts on cleaning and sanding a piece of furniture and completing any necessary repairs.
supplies Needed
Step 1: Base paint layer
For the project, I wanted my base layer to be white, so I just used primer for this (BIN shellac-based primer). I did a few coats so that I had good coverage and then did a light sand to smooth everything out.
You can use any base color you want, just consider whether you need to use a primer first (my guide to priming can be found here). Keep in mind that the more contrast between the base color and top color you have, the more noticeable the pattern will be. I’ve done it both ways – it’s just a different look. I have some examples of other finished projects at the end of this post.
Step 2: Mix up the paint glaze
Yes, you read that right, for the top color, you actually want to make a glaze. I do this using a 50/50 mix of my paint color and Floetrol. The reason you do this is for workability. The paint needs to say “wet” while you are doing this technique. If it dries too quickly you will get pulling in the paint and a big mess!
It’s important to note that the color may look slightly different as a glaze over your base color. For this project I used Vagabond Blue by Melange Paints, and it is lighter when thinned with Floetrol and used over a white base. I always do a test on either a piece of scrap wood or on a drawer of the piece.
Step 3: Apply the paint glaze
Now it’s time for the fun part! Pick a section to get started. I generally like to start on the sides. I find the top is usually the hardest becuase it is the biggest section. I recommend taping off the area you’re working on when you are just learning (I didn’t here but it does make it easier).
Using a roller apply the glaze evenly to the entire section. You need to work fairly quickly because you don’t want the paint glaze to start drying.
Step 4: Create the faux linen look
While the glaze is still wet, use the chip brush to pull across in one direction, keeping your hand as steady as possible. Don’t overdo it. Once the glaze starts to dry you won’t be able to go back over it without messing up the finish.
After you’ve have lines in one direction let the section dry completely. Then reapply the glaze with a roller (step 3), and use the brush to create texture in the opposite direction. When I first tried this technique, I tried to do both directions at once. It was hard to get the pattern to look even before the glaze started to dry. While letting it dry in between takes longer, I ultimately saved time becuase I was less likely to mess up and then have to redo an entire section.
Step 5: Topcoat
Once the glaze has dried completely it is time to topcoat. This is an important step, even if you used an all-in-one paint. When you are creating a glaze, it dilutes the topcoat within the paint significantly. Therefore it is important to seal up your finished piece with a few coats of topcoat.
My two favorite water-based topcoats are Polyvine Wax Finish Varnish and General Finishes High Performance top coat. For both, I suggest a flat finish to mimic fabric as closely as possible. You can learn more about topcoating in my tutorial for sealing painted furniture.
Additional tips
You can experiment with different brushes here, I’ve tried brooms but like these cheap natural fiber chip brushes best. You can even cut the bristles a bit on the ends to make them more uneven. This will give you more pronounced lines in the glaze. I also use these small wire brushes on the smaller edges.
For door and drawer fronts, you want the pattern to match when everything gets put back together. To accomplish this, either put the drawers and doors in place before applying the texture, or line them up in their correct order where you are painting them so that you can ensure the texture flows evenly from one to the next.
Other examples of faux linen technique
As I mentioned above, I have done this technique several times. Here are a few examples of some of the other pieces that I’ve completed.
Summary
I hope this tutorial (and examples) inspires you to try this faux linen finish. Just keep in mind it doesn’t give you a perfect finish. If you can’t embrace that, it might not be for you (and that’s okay)! But honestly, give it a try, have some patience, and don’t give up too quickly. If you don’t love it at the end, remember it’s only paint, and you can always go in another direction!
If you do use this technique, I’d love to see the results! You can always share it with me on Instagram or send me an email. I love seeing other’s completed projects.