How to Seal Painted Furniture: Protecting With a Top Coat

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Photo of my favortire products to seal painted furntiure. Pictured is Annie Sloan Clear Wax, Polyvine Wax Finish Varnish, General Finishes High Performance Waterbased Topcoat and the Zibra topcoat brush.

So you’ve gone through prepping and painting a piece of furniture and it looks amazing! But you also want that finish to last, so it’s very important to seal painted furniture. There are many options when deciding what to use, and the process itself can be tricky depending on what you use.

What about paints that include a topcoat?

I am asked this question all the time. Especially because my favorite paint is considered an all-in-one paint that doesn’t need a topcoat. My advice is – if you are painting a piece for yourself and it’s not being used in a high-traffic area, you can probably get away without sealing. I have plenty of pieces in my own home that I have not top-coated and they are holding up great. However, if you are painting furniture to sell, I would recommend sealing your piece and giving it that added amount of protection. In the long run, I think it will benefit your business to sell the highest quality, most durable finish you can create.

One quick note on this – some paints are alkyd or enamel-based, such as cabinetry paints. These should not be top coated – they truly have durability engineered into them. In fact, adding an extra layer of a different type of sealer can affect (in a bad way) their adhesion and performance. If you have any questions about specific paints, please ask and I will certainly clarify whether you should or should not seal them.

Ways to seal painted furniture:

Image of a person brushing on a coat of General Finishes High Performance Topcoat with a Zibra topcoat brush.

Wax

I will start by saying I love using wax to seal painted furniture, and it’s what I used when I first started. My favorite is Annie Sloan wax. While it can be a bit of a workout to apply and wipe back, the finish is truly amazing. It enhances the color and depth of the paint, and it is very durable once it has fully cured.

However, there are two reasons why I don’t use wax very often anymore. One, it does have a long cure time and can be fragile and prone to chipping until it has cured. Second, and more importantly, it should be re-applied every few years to maintain its protective qualities. This is fine when you are painting a piece for your own home, but more difficult when painting pieces professionally. Wax is best suited for paints that do not have a top coat in them already. They work best when they are able to soak into the porous finish of a chalk or mineral-based paint.

Water-Based top Coat

Water-based sealers or top coats are a great option for most painted furniture projects. When applied they will add a layer of protection without altering the color of the paint. They are also less toxic and have easier cleanup when compared to their oil-based counterparts. My favorite water-based topcoat is General Finishes High Performance Topcoat in Flat. I use this Zibra brush to apply. The combination of these products gives me a smooth and reliable finish. Another product I’ve had success using is Polyvine Wax Finish Varnish. This is a bit easier to use than the General Finishes Topcoat and nearly as durable – it’s a great option especially if you’re starting out. It is a much thicker consistency, but it drys level and clear, I promise! Personally, I prefer using a brush to apply my topcoat. I’ve tried so many pads, sponges, rollers, etc…, but I’ve found I have the most control and get the best finish with a brush.

Much like the painting step, you need to be very careful about overworking your water-based sealer. The work time is generally pretty short and you’ll want to move quickly and not let the sealer start to dry while you’re still brushing it on. Sometimes you will get clouding over darker colors as well. You can minimize this by applying thin coats, letting the coats dry completely, and even adding a drop of your paint color into the sealer before applying. The flatter the finish, the more likely cloudiness will occur. Applying water-based topcoats takes practice, so please be patient with yourself!

Hemp Oil

The easiest way to seal painted furniture is with hemp oil, hands down. You simply wipe it on, let it sit for several hours, and then wipe back the excess with a shop towel or rag. However, like wax, it needs to be re-applied every few years, and doesn’t work as well over paints that aren’t porous. And I think wax adds a bit more durability when compared to hemp oil.

Oil Based Sealers

I generally don’t recommend oil-based sealers, such as polyurethane, over paint because they amber over time. This will affect your color, and lighter colors will start to look yellowed. They are also more toxic (need more ventilation and personal protection) and are more challenging to clean up.

I hope this helps to break down when and how to seal painted furniture. Like most things when painting furniture, there is no one-size-fits-all approach and you need to do what works best in your situation. I’m always happy to try and answer any of your questions along the way. And as with any product I recommend, be sure to follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions for use.

be sure to check out my other posts on furniture painting basics:

As always, please let me know if you have any questions. Want to learn more about all things furniture? Make sure to sign up for my newsletter to get the latest updates and exclusive content.

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Angled view of 9 drawer mcm dresser painted in a smoky brown with a light wood base and brass pulls.

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